Pet Care
BEFORE ADOPTING
So, you are thinking about adding a new member to the family? Stop and think again!! Are you prepared to take on the responsibility? You must know that to adopt/ purchase a dog means that from then on you are responsible for the pups/dogs physical & mental health. They are no different from any human kid who requires their families love, care and attention. They feel and respond like little children. Just like human children, puppies are not born with the sense of where to dirty and where not to. It is only with age and training do they learn to relieve themselves on walks. Till then the family has to be patient and has to continuously keep teaching the pup right from wrong without hitting or torturing the pup. Hitting or torturing the pup will only make him rebellious and angry. That’s something we all can relate to in relation to human beings also. Your pup/dog will require regular vaccination shots and twice a day long walks. Have you discussed who will do the running around with the dog?? When you feel like traveling where will your dog be? The most important point of consideration is WHY DO YOU WANT A DOG? Is it because your friends/neighbors/family have one? Is it that when you see the dog in the Hutch ad you feel like having one of your own? Before you adopt/purchase one go and spend time with your friends/ family members or neighbor’s dog and talk to the person who feeds him/her and takes him/her for their vaccinations and walks. Try and spend a few days at a place where you can take the responsibility of a dog entirely. Take care of the dog/pup right from the morning till evening- walk, food, cleaning, playing etc. This might be the reality check that one needs. Note : Keeping the dog isolated, leashed or beating the dog is not only illegal but also in-human and shameful on your part. If that is your idea of having a pet just try and live that life for yourself for few days and you’ll know exactly how one feels. Dogs/pups are JUST LIKE A HUMAN CHILD. NEW PUPPY – CARE Well, you’d really given it a good deal of thought and research and were up to the task of bringing home a new life…so you went and welcomed one into your family and hearts. Now you have a little pup to bring up and love and care for. If you’ve had dogs before you surely can recall the excitement and enthusiasm you must’ve felt each time that you brought a furry little bundle home for the first time. And IF this is your very first time then there just might be just a bit of “What have I done?”anxiety about this major moment in your life. And well anxiety is perfectly fine and somewhere good also, coz owning and caring for a puppy is a huge responsibility. With the right kinda care, love, good health you’ll see the little pup grow into a beautiful dog of whom you’d be so proud to have as your family. VACCINATIONS & VACCINE RELATED QUESTIONS WHEN TO VACCINATE It is only natural to call and ask friends and relatives who have or have had a dog before, for advise on your new pets care. The fact is that the only advice that you need is the veterinarians. Each veterinarian will have his/her own preferred protocol for vaccinations and for follow-up vaccinations throughout life. On your way home after you have adopted/bought the little one is actually a good time to have the pup seen by your veterinarian, and its even better if you can give a stool sample from the pup for analysis for worms. Getting rid of any intestinal parasites is the first step in having the pup’s nutritional efficiency at an optimum level. During the examination the veterinarian will look at the pup’s medical/vaccination history. If the person from whom you have got the pup had already started the vaccinations, your vet will see the pets vaccination card and according advice you about his/her next booster (A “Booster” shot refers to giving a vaccine more than one time. The follow-up vaccinations will BOOST the immune level up higher and the patient will be even better protected from the disease) or next vaccination. If the pup is healthy and unvaccinated, your veterinarian will suggest vaccinating right away. Multivalent vaccines are those that have more than one disease antigen combined into one injection
A typical multivalent vaccine is the DHLPPCv vaccine for dogs. Instead of giving six different injections, all these “vaccines” or antigens can be given in a single small volume injection. Certainly this is easier on the dog than getting six separate injections. DHLPPCv stands for: D - Canine Distemper Virus - a serious viral infection. This disease has neither relationship to nor connection with a dog’s temperament. Distemper poses no risk to humans. For more info – http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=419 http://www.petplanet.co.uk/petplanet/health/vaccinationsdog.htm http://www.2ndchance.info/dog%20distemper.htm H – Hepatitis - a viral infection caused by two related viruses that mainly affects the liver.
Vaccination Protocols and Schedule
Your veterinarian’s vaccination protocols may be different. Vaccination protocols for dogs are changing almost yearly as new research is done on duration of immunity. 6 to 7 weeks of age: Give first combination vaccine. (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza, Coronavirus) DO YOU REALLY NEED SO MANY VACCINATIONS? YES!! One vaccination does not assure that the pup will actually mount a good antibody response to a disease. If the pup has lots of immunity (called PASSIVE IMMUNITY) that was borrowed from the mother during early nursing. The idea is to get the vaccine into the pup just as soon as the mother’s passive immunity wears off (NOW the pup is very susceptible to sickness if it is exposed to the disease!) so that the pup can make more lasting immunity of its own. ATTENTION: If your puppy has any trouble breathing after a vaccination, or seems weak, staggers, has pale gums or seems at all unresponsive… contact your veterinarian immediately! How does a vaccination work?Vaccinations help the dog’s immune system to protect itself against disease. For detailed information consult your vet. Are their any vaccine reactions?Reactions such as a low-grade fever or muscle aches and pain are more common in young and toy breed dogs. It causes them to eat less and sleep for longer than usual hours. ATTENTION: If your puppy has any trouble breathing after a vaccination, or seems weak, staggers, has pale gums or seems at all unresponsive… contact your veterinarian immediately! How many shots does a dog or puppy need?There is no fixed answer for this question, but a few basic rules apply.A minimum of two multivalent vaccinations (including distemper and parvo) given three to four weeks apart are required for every dog or puppy over three months old. An additional vaccination against rabies is also necessary. Vaccinations against coronavirus, Bordatella, or Lyme disease are based on owner’s needs and veterinarian’s advice. For young puppies, vaccinations usually start at six-to-eight weeks of age and are given every three-to-four weeks until the puppy is 16 weeks of age. Recent information regarding parvovirus may extend this recommendation to 18 or even 20 weeks, especially for Dobes and Rottweilers. PLS CONSULT your VET to follow the exact vaccination routine for your dog or pup. ******************************************************************************** ******************************** House Training your Puppy Housetraining is a stage which must be worked through with every new puppy. Some pick the idea up very quickly; others seem to take a while to catch on. If your pup is one of the slower ones, take heart – they all get there in the end! Understanding how your puppy’s mind works can help to take some of the hassle out of housetraining for both of you. Remember, what being clean means to you and what it means to your pup are not necessarily the same thing! To you, it is important that the puppy will go to a chosen spot in the garden to do his business.To your pup, it is important to relieve himself where and when the notion takes him! The puppy’s only major criteria are that he would prefer to perform in a quiet place away from his food and his bed, which is a health and safety rule of nature. From the puppy’s point of view, this makes behind the sofa or on your bedroom floor perfectly acceptable places. It is up to you to show him that this is not what you had in mind, and to guide him to a better spot. So – Lets get everybody on the same wavelength and make housetraining as easy as possible for both of you. Right from the start, choose a spot in the garden which you would like the puppy to use as his toilet area. Remember that a puppy’s early warning system is not very good in the early weeks so make life as easy as possible for both of you by choosing a spot which is quick and easy to reach from the puppy’s bed, food and play areas. Anticipate when the puppy will need to be taken out As a general rule, puppies need to go to the loo at the following times : · immediately after waking. · after eating or drinking. · when excited. · after playing and sometimes during a wild game if he did not have a chance to go out before the game started.
· At least every waking hour! These are your guidelines – get the pup to his appointed toilet area at these times and you are well on your way to cracking the problem Watch for the signs Learn to read your puppy’s body language and you will soon spot tell tale signs that he is about to urinate or defaecate. Typical signs to look for are sniffing around in a purposeful manner, circling round on one spot or holding the tail high. As soon as you spot these signs, pick the pup up and take him straight to his toilet area. Show him what you expect of him
Don’t expect your puppy to know where he has to go without being shown. Take him, stay with him, encourage him (start using a chosen word now and in time, he will learn to go on command), and praise him every time he gets it right! Don’t let it turn into a game Housetraining time is not wild game in the garden time. If the puppy does not perform straight away when taken to his toilet area, don’t keep him out for ages. Instead, take him back inside but watch him especially carefully. Don’t let him wander off behind a chair or into another room. If you have an indoor kennel, pop the pup inside for a few minutes. Take him out again 10 minutes later. This vigilance will quickly bring rewards, so persevere. Do not expect a very young puppy to last all night without needing the toilet or if you have to go out for a few hours, even after he has got the hang of daytime housetraining. Some puppies are unable to last all night until they are almost a year old. Provide the puppy with a suitable surface that is easy to clean. Cover the appointed area with polythene under a layer of newspaper. The paper is quick and easy to dispose of and the polythene will protect your floor. A relatively enclosed night time bed area will speed up the house training process, but do make sure as your puppy grows that he still has enough space to avoid soiling his own bed if he cannot wait – a prospect neither of you will relish. NEVER chastise a puppy for having an accident – he can not wait and it is unfair to expect him to hold on until you are ready to take him out. Punishment will only confuse him and may in fact teach him to be more secretive about toileting. You don’t want him to be afraid of going to the loo where you can see him, but rather to perform quickly in your presence when you take him out! Mistakes will happen; it’s all part of bringing up a puppy. Instead of getting annoyed with the pup or yourself, clean up any accidents which happen as quickly as possible, with the minimum of fuss. Treat the area with a pet deodoriser ( we sell proprietary sprays or you can make your own by diluting a small amount of biological washing powder in water and using this – check that the spray won’t bleach your carpets first, though!) Such a spray will completely eliminate doggy odours detectable by his sensitive nose as well as yours. To our noses an area may smell perfectly fresh when cleaned with a normal cleaner, but to the dog’s nose there will be a residual scent which attract him back to use the same area again. While you are cleaning up, think why the accident happened ? · When was the puppy last outside? · When did he last eat? · Have you changed his diet? · Has there been a change in the household routine? · Do accidents happen when he gets excited? · Have you relaxed your housetraining a little too early? · Have you cleaned any accident areas with a deodoriser?
· Does he understand what is expected of him? If the puppy is having a lot of accidents, this would suggest that he does not really understand what is expected, so take the time to go right back to the beginning and show him again what you want. No shouting or smacking, just lots of time and patience! It is quite common for a puppy to appear to have become housetrained and then to relapse for a while. Do not despair; consider the possibilities and you will probably be able to pinpoint what has gone wrong. From there, take a few steps back and retrain. Very rarely, medical problems can cause a form of incontinence in which the dog really does not know that it needs the loo and so has no stimulus to ask out. If your puppy is continually having accidents and normal housetraining methods are simply not working, make an appointment to see one of the vets. Finally, some dogs, however well trained still have little accidents when they are greeting visitors or family members. Every time these dogs become excited, a little puddle appears, and no matter how much you chastise the dog, the problem just seems to get worse! This is a natural response called submissive urination and is quite separate from normal house training. The dog is actually trying to show you how much he respects you and how lowly she (the problem is more common in bitches) thinks she is. To help your dog break this habit, do not shout at her; instead keep greetings very low key and ideally outside. Build up the dog’s confidence gradually and greet her gently. If she has an accident, clean it up and don’t make a fuss.
************************************************************************* from Vichitra Amarnathan Some of us may already know this but just in case. Chocolate is extremely harmful to dogs and can be life threatening so please dont share your birthday cake or a cookie with your doggie friend. The magnesium in chocolate, which is beneficial to humans, can seriously harm dogs. It can cause seizures and result in instant death. A friend of mine had befriended a stray dog named Moti who lived outside his building. Moti was less than a year old and was everyone’s darling. The children used to play with him. One day, when the children were buying themselves treats at the tuck shop, they decided to share their 5 Star with Moti. Moti lapped up half a 5 Star and started playing with them again. But within minutes, he went into a seizure, his mouth was frothing and before anybody even understood what was happening, Moti passed away in front of them. So please dont give any chocolate to your dog or any dog. ************************************************************************* Dr. Eric Barchas, DVM http://blogs.dogster.com/vet_blog_information_advice/protect-your-pet-from-three-common-poisons/ I have spent several nights over the last few weeks working at a veterinary emergency hospital near San Francisco. We see an incredible range of cases, but during my last two shifts in particular I treated a huge number of dogs for exposure to toxic substances. There are literally thousands of household products, plants, foods, human medications and chemicals that are poisonous to dogs and cats. To view two (non-comprehensive) lists of potential poisons, click here (for household products) and here (for plants). Despite the huge number of hazardous plants and materials out there, I have noticed that three of them seem to be more commonly ingested by pets than the others. So, although I encourage you to be proactive about protecting your pet from all potential poisons, please be especially aware of these three.
I recommend that pets never be allowed access to any poisons. However, please be especially careful with the three listed above. Dogs are more likely than cats to be exposed to each of these poisons because they are less selective about what they eat. If you suspect that your pet has consumed any poisonous product, contact a veterinarian immediately. Acting quickly can help to prevent serious consequences. If possible, always bring the packaging from the product that was consumed, as well as any remaining product to the veterinarian’s office when you seek treatment. This will help the vet to positively identify the type and amount of toxin consumed. Remember, however, that the best way to keep your pet safe from poisons is to make sure he or she does not have access to them in the first place. ****************************************************** FAQ Bringing home a Pariah dog: Tips from Shirin Merchant, canine behaviour consultant
We’ve all heard the famous Oscar Wilde quote about marriage being “based on a mutual misunderstanding.” Have you ever wondered at how well it applies to the dog-human relationship? With dog ownership on the rise, the scope for this “mutual misunderstanding” has increased enormously. On the one hand we assume our beloved pets have exactly the same thought processes, needs and priorities as us (“He’s almost human!” is considered a great compliment…Why?) On the other hand, our dogs often interpret our indulgence and pampering as signs of submission, and write us off as weak-minded wimps. Miraculously, we may pass a lifetime in this beautiful bubble with no major harm done. But if and when the bubble does burst, and we finally realize that our dog is bringing more stress than joy into our lives, it’s sometimes too late to undo the errors we made. It’s so much easier to get everything right at the start. Considering the vast body of knowledge now available on the topic of dog behaviour, there is really no excuse for bungling. As one of the kind-hearted people who adopted a stray dog, you have an additional responsibility: You are now an ambassador for the cause of street dog adoption. Isn’t it great to show off a perfect-mannered Pariah dog or mongrel – and let others see how it is as good a dog as any pure-breed? Undoubtedly the best person to consult on this topic is Shirin Merchant, India’s only practicing canine behaviour consultant, an associate of John Rogerson (one of the world’s foremost canine behaviour experts), and editor of Woof magazine. Shirin points out that all new dog owners need to take certain steps to settle their new pets into good habits – whether their dogs are purchased purebreds, or Pariahs and pariah-mixes adopted from the road, or abandoned purebreds adopted from shelters. However, the issues you must tackle in the case of street dog rescue/adoption or abandoned dog rescue/adoption are different from issues in the case of a pup bought from a breeder or a home. We asked Shirin to respond to some of the most common queries that crop up every time a stray is adopted. Q1. Are there any basic temperamental differences between pariah dogs and mongrels and purebreeds? A1. No, temperament will depend on a dog’s genetics, the environment it grows up in and its experiences as a pup and through life. All three play a role in the temperament of a dog and you can have a nasty tempered labrador or a wonderfully sweet rottweiler just as you can have a good natured pariah or a hot tempered mongrel. Q2. What must I expect if I adopt an adult stray dog who has lived a while on the street? A1. New owners will often feel sorry for a rescued dog and so may initially take time off work to help it settle in, taking it for long walks and spending extra time with the animal. But when they finally go back to work, the dog will get distressed with the abrupt change in routine. A newly adopted dog is often very insecure in a new environment. It is your job as his new owner to build his confidence and convince him that he and you are here to stay. Dogs find comfort and stability in a fixed routine, so try and keep your and his daily activities as consistent as possible – it will help him adjust quickly to his new home and teach him that he can depend on you. So start as you mean to go on and get the dog used to your lifestyle from Day One. Q3. Can such a dog be taught to be obedient? Will he accept human direction after being used to an independent life? A3. Yes, most dogs crave to be part of a social group – it could be a family or people or other dogs – and if trained with kind and reward-based methods, they will happily listen to any person in the house. However, the new owner must keep in mind that these dogs have been used to a life of freedom and can be strongly independent. They will not accept any training method that involves the use of choke chains or force – the dog may then either withdraw into a shell or show aggression to protect himself. Q4. Up to what age could a dog be trainable? If I adopt an older dog, what are the chances of his grasping house-training for instance? A4. A dog that is trained with reward-based methods can be trained at any time and point in his life. It is a fallacy that you cannot teach new tricks to an old dog. However, toilet training is not to be confused with “training of a dog.” It is a separate behaviour. If taught with patience and if there is consistency on the part of the owner, any dog – at any age (as long as there are no medical problems) – can be toilet trained within a week. Q5. Street dogs are used to passing urine and stools whenever they need to, in a place of their choice. How will they adjust to being taken out only at fixed times? What would be the most humane, healthy way to tackle this problem? A5. As a matter of fact, street dogs are very particular where they defecate and urinate. They will never dirty their bed or near where they are fed. Adult strays also will quickly get used to a routine and can ‘hold’ their urine for long periods of time, till they are taken out to clean themselves. For those dogs that do mess in the house, they need to be put onto a toilet training schedule – with a bit of consistency and patience, they will soon learn to toilet outdoors. Q6. Many street dogs seem to dislike chains and leashes. How should we introduce them to being walked on a leash? A6. You can’t blame a dog that has lived free and walked anywhere he pleases to resent being constrained on a leash. A leash and collar should be introduced slowly to the animal. It is a good idea to teach the dog to accept the collar and leash without the distractions of the outdoors. But don’t just put the dog on a collar and leash and expect it to adjust. Put on the collar and leash just before mealtime and let him eat his meal with the collar on. That way, the he will soon learn to associate the collar and leash to a pleasant experience. In addition, put the collar and leash on and walk the dog about the house, using treats and praise to lure him and distract him away from the restrictions of the leash. Do this for a couple of minutes everyday, then remove the leash. Do not leave it on and let the dog walk about the house with the leash trailing behind; this can lead to the leash being chewed or misconstrued as a toy – which can lead to problems later on. Also remember never to use the leash to correct the dog for misbehaving, it is kinder to verbally reprimand him than to choke him by yanking on the collar. It is also advisable to use a simple collar or a half choke. Never use a choke chain on a dog – if used wrongly (if the dog continues to pull on the choke chain or is yanked hard), it can harm the dog mentally and physically. Q7. A dog who is used to life on the street experiences a lot of freedom and variety. Won’t he get bored living in a flat? How can we prevent that? A7. In the same way that you would for any dog – play games, take it for outings, walks, treks and give it plenty of love and care. Q8. We already have a dog and we want to adopt a second dog from a shelter. Do you think they may fight? A8. A lot depends on the temperament, age and sex of the two dogs and whether either dog comes with a preconceived hatred of other dogs. The kennel staff will be the best people to advise you on which dog to adopt. There are ways in which you can correctly introduce two dogs, making sure few problems, if at all, will occur in the long run. Q9. Adult street dogs don’t play with toys or have possessions. What toys would be best for them? A9. All dogs play –they may not play with the fancy toys you buy them, but they will play with any object they deem fun – it could be an empty toilet paper roll or a plastic bottle or even your TV remote control. Scientists have long known that play is an integral part of a living creature’s well being. Even adult strays can be seen playing tag with one another or play-wrestling or chasing. The games you allow your dog to play must be appropriate and not encourage any kind of aggression. Encourage the dog to satisfy his instinct to chase by throwing a ball – do not allow him to chase birds or cats or other small animals – if allowed, he could even start to chase children one day. Discourage tugging games that involve a lot of growling – stop the game when it gets out of hand. It is also noticed that men prefer to pit their strength against their dogs by playing rough and tumble wrestling games. These games should be strongly discouraged as they encourage aggression in a dog. The dog will then expect your grandmother or your niece to play the same game. Encourage your dog to find hidden objects or chase a ball. It may be difficult to get a former stray to play initially, but do see what kind of game he prefers and work in that direction. Some dogs like to use their nose – play scenting games with them. Some like to chase – throw a ball for such dogs. Some love to explore – take him for a hike. That way your dog will be kept happy and out of trouble. Q10. Will they be more territorial or aggressive than purebreds? Are they likely to attack guests for instance? A10. The dog’s temperament and attitude towards people will depend on the life it has led on the streets. If it has had friendly and pleasant experiences with people, it will probably be a friendly dog to live with. However, if it has been abused, chased or hit, it will probably attack people or even family members if it feels threatened or fear at any time. A purebred dog is more likely to turn out to be aggressive or territorial if its parents were so, or it was brought up in that manner. Lack of socialising and training a dog to be aggressive can also play a part in a dog attacking people. Stray dogs tend to be territorial when living on the streets, because their survival depends on it. But it is often seen that some of them when rehomed, tend to have a diminished territorial drive since they no longer have the need to protect resources as they are in abundance (food, shelter, water, etc.) Q11. Children are often cruel to strays. Are rescued/adopted dogs likely to be scared of children? Will they be aggressive with them? A11. It really depends on their previous experiences with children. Some dogs, who have faced no abuse may be okay with kids. Dogs who have suffered any kind of abuse will probably show aggression in self defence. In any case a child and dog should never be left unsupervised or alone. A good shelter will carry out temperament tests on a dog before placing it in a home with children. An adult dog that resents children or is suspicious of them will probably never come around to liking kids, so new owners have to keep that in mind and not be foolish and think that if the dog is exposed to kids long enough, it will learn to appreciate them. Q12. What are the advantages and disadvantages of adopting an adult dog, as opposed to a puppy? A12. Puppies can be appealing and great fun, but they also require a lot of care and running around. A pup needs to be taught manners, will need to be housebroken, exercised and will chew up everything he can get his little teeth into. You can bypass the struggle with a dog that has outgrown the aggravations of adolescence. An older dog is calmer, requires moderate exercise and can even be left alone at home for short periods of time. If you lack the time, energy and commitment to bring up a pup, an adult dog may be a better choice. However, whilst a puppy’s character can be moulded from the beginning, with an older dog, what you see is what you get. He will be pretty much set in his ways. If you do opt for an older dog, make your choice carefully; you can teach an old dog new tricks, but it is almost impossible to teach him to forget his old tricks. Q13. Do street dogs have a greater hunting instinct? Can they be trusted around smaller animals or birds? A13. It would depend on the environment the dog has been brought up in. If a dog has lived alongside a cat, it is very likely he will be OK with the animal. But a dog that has chased cats or hasn’t been exposed to them may end up chasing the animal. Q14. What about rehoming an abandoned purebred? Will the dog have behaviour problems? A14. Most purebred dogs are abandoned when they get too expensive to maintain, when they fall ill, get old, get chronic skin infections or when they develop behaviour problems. A good looking, otherwise healthy purebred dog that is abandoned is sure to have behaviour problems. Unfortunately, the behaviour may not surface in the kennel or until the dog has been in its new home for over a fortnight. Temperament testing an abandoned dog will reveal a lot about the dog and where he came from. The kennel can then accordingly rehome the dog keeping in mind its needs and temperament. Q15. Does inbreeding make some purebreds unpredictable and nervous? Would street dogs be more or less free from this problem? A15. Inbreeding does not make a dog nervous or aggressive – poor breeding does. If either the sire or dam have a nervous or aggressive temperament, it is highly likely that all the puppies in the litter will grow up to be of similar temperament. Potential owners should therefore carefully check the parents, before purchasing a puppy. The same will go for street dogs – pups born from parents with a poor temperament will grow up to be nervous or aggressive. However, in our society, an aggressive dog is less likely to get fed by people and is likely to be killed or removed by people. This kind of ensures that most of the dogs on the streets, other than the odd exception, are even- tempered and even quite friendly towards people who are friendly and kind to them. You can ask Shirin Merchant questions on dog behaviour on this blog (mail the questions to rajashree.khalap@gmail.com). If you wish to consult her directly, write to Canines Can Care on k9cancare@hotmail.com Should I adopt a FEMALE pup/dog? by RAJASHREE KHALAP (WSD) I was quite surprised to hear from Malleka recently about the gender bias in the dog world. That’s because for the past few years we have not had this particular problem in our adoption programme in Mumbai. At WSD last month four females got very good homes (two adults and two pups). In fact one of the people had specifically asked for a female pup and was very pleased with our little black Chintoo. The other owners were open to adopting either a male or a female. Nine other females also got very good homes in the recent past and their owners are very happy with them. The main reason for the reluctance to take females is of course the mess and nuisance of the dog coming on heat. There is also a perception that females do not make good watchdogs. The first problem can easily be prevented. The second is a myth. Here are the actual facts about adopting females: • The mess and nuisance of the heat can be completely prevented by spaying. “Spay” is another word for ovariohysterectomy (surgical removal of the ovaries and uterus). It is performed under general anaesthesia and should only be carried out by a qualified and experienced veterinary surgeon. in any good veterinary clinic or NGO, high levels of hygiene are maintained for surgery and for post-operative care. At WSD we have completed over 31,000 sterilizations, of which at least 60% were spays. When correct procedures are followed and the dog is healthy, it is a low risk operation. In fact there is a lot of risk in NOT spaying a female dog: unspayed females frequently get a uterine disease called pyometra, which can be fatal. • Unwanted litters are of course also prevented by spaying. • Spaying does not reduce territorial instinct or change the dog’s temperament in any way. • There is a common belief that dogs of both sexes become overweight and sluggish if neutered. If dogs are neutered between the age of 1 and 2 years, and are not overfed, they will not become fat or sluggish. Check out my Lalee on the home page (and every other page!) of the WSD website, http://www.wsdindia.org/ She had been spayed a couple of years before these photos were taken. Even today at the age of 6 and a half, she doesn’t look too different and she certainly isn’t sluggish. • There is NO difference between a male and female dog when it comes to intelligence, courage, loyalty and ability to guard the house. In my immediate family we have mostly kept females, and I secretly suspect that they are smarter than males! I’m mentioning just a few excellent female watchdogs – Elsa, our Pariah-mix dog when I was a child, my mother’s Poppy who actually prevented a theft, our building dog Rani, Dolly, a dog living in the compound of Corinthian building (Mumbai) – she cornered a thief against the building wall and didn’t allow him to move or run away! The following members of the Indian Pariah Dog Club – Kalpana Talpade’s Sweetie, Daisy Sidhwa’s Bini, Rekha Sabnis’s Masti, my Lalee – are all superb watchdogs, and all of them are more alert and suspicious of strangers than the male dogs in the house. The brave and loyal character of female dogs was obviously well-known even in the long-ago days of vedic Hinduism. The dog belonging to the God Indra was not a male but a female! Her name was Sarama. A famous story in the Rig Veda relates how she tracked and helped the gods recover a herd of stolen cattle. So now we’re in the 21st century, can we forget about the gender bias please! Rajashree Khalap http://indianpariahdog.blogspot.com/
More information will be added soon… Contributions are welcome – (dogadoption.in@gmail.com)
dogadoption.in team |
||
|
Copyright © 2010 Dog Adoption - All Rights Reserved 167 queries. 0.345 seconds. |
||
